Many Moisturizers and Emollients Damage Skin

From Skin and Allergy News, April 1997:
Many moisturizers and emollients sold by major skin care companies delay the healing of irritated and damaged skin and make the situation worse by inhibiting natural skin repair. According to Dr. Halker-Sorenson (Skandborg, Denmark), new computerized instruments have demonstrated that many popular moisturizers increase skin damage in methods similar to skin irritants.

Nor are skin barrier creams an answer, such as those containing petrolatum and lanolin. Dr. Charles Ellis (Ann Arbor, Michigan) commented, "In my experience and from what I can garner (from the literature), I don't think they work very well. What we need is to protect the skin surface and to heal the skin from within, by putting the skin in a situation in which normal skin repair can occur."

Virtually all of popular moisturizers and emollients sold by skin care companies contain high concentrations of detergents and detergent-like chemicals, despite 40 years of scientific evidence that these detergents damage the skin and degrade the skin's natural protective function. Also damaging to skin are many of the dyes and optical diffusers used to give the appearance of healthy skin.

Another mistake is to add to skin creams certain lipids that occur naturally in the skin hoping that this replenishes skin lipids and improves skin health. However, recent research has found that adding natural skin fats and lipids to skin creams causes a reduction in the skin's natural biosynthesis of skin fats and lipids so that, in a few weeks, the skin is in worse condition than before.

Dry skin is caused by two problems: (1) Damage to the skin's protective barrier which produces excessive water loss through the skin, and (2) A reduction in the concentrations of the skin's water-holding sugars and proteins the proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). Copper-Peptides act by helping to repair the skin barrier and raising proteoglycans and GAGs. Waxes and oils seal the skin's surface and prevent excessive water loss. Cosmetic moisturizers loosen the skin's protective barrier and hydrate (wet) the skin proteins but have the long-term effect of damaging your skin.
 
 
 

Lipids and fats in the skin provide the epidermal barrier to transcutaneous water loss. These lipids in the upper skin area called the stratum corneum are arranged in layers called lamellae. The lower skin layers contain more typical fats such as triglycerides and phospholipids while the upper layers have more ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids.

While lipid replenishment methods are still being developed by dermatological scientists, Emu Oil is already an excellent natural oil for lipid replenishment. It comes from small ostrich-like bird.

Australian aborigines discovered the benefits of Emu Oil many thousands of years ago and used its helpful properties on damaged and sunburned skin. The fatty acid composition of human skin oil and Emu Oil are very similar. In both oils mono-unsaturated oleic acid is the most prevalent, then palmitic acid, followed by the essential fatty acid, linoleic acid. This may be the reason for the positive actions of Emu Oil on human skin. Skin researchers at the University of Texas Medical School in Houston reported that Emu Oil at up to 100 % concentration in lotions to be nonallergenic, non-comedogenic, have low irritation potential, and are bacteriostatic.

Replacement of key skin lipids often accelerates skin repair and can be a helpful treatment for dry skin and eczema. Also conditions such as burns and psoriasis often benefit from Emu Oil.

EMU OIL-S Lipid Replenisher for Skin is a peroxide-free Emu Oil supplemented with Ubiquinone, 7-keto DHEA, mixed isomers of natural tocotrienols, and mixed isomers of Vitamin E.

EMU OIL-S Lipid Replenisher for Hair is a peroxide-free Emu Oil supplemented with mixed saw palmetto oil and natural tocotrienols.

The supplements used are Ubiquinone which helps skin energy metabolism, 7-keto DHEA which helps endogenous lipid synthesis in the skin, mixed natural tocotrienols and natural Vitamin E which are powerful anti-oxidants.

What is Lipid Replenishment?

Lipids and fats in the skin provide the epidermal barrier to transcutaneous water loss. These lipids in the upper skin area called the stratum corneum are arranged in layers called lamellae. The lower skin layers contain more typical fats such as triglycerides and phospholipids while the upper layers have more ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids.

Some types of damage to the skin can be helped to repair faster when certain types of lipids are applied directly to the skin's surface. Zterstein and colleagues (1997) found that application of a mixture of cholesterol, ceramides, and free fatty acids at a 3:1:1:1 ratio helped accelerate repair of the skin's upper layer. However, defining the best lipids in such mixtures has proven very difficult because some lipid mixtures that help short-term skin repair eventually decrease the skin's natural synthesis of lipids (by a biochemical process called "feedback inhibition") and ultimately produce a damaged skin that is very low in natural fats and oils.

Also while this method works fairly well on some types of skin damage that remove fats from the skin (such as tape stripping and burns from fat extracting solvents like acetone) it does not work on more general damage which requires extensive repair and the production of new collagen, elastin, water holding molecules and so on.

Emu Oil for Lipid Replenishment

While lipid replenishment methods are still being developed by dermatological scientists, emu oil is already a very good natural oil for lipid replenishment. It comes from small ostrich-like bird. The emu (Doromiceius novae-hollandiae) is the world's second largest bird, only second to the ostrich. An adult bird stands 5 feet tall, weighs 120 pounds, and can run 30 miles an hour. The species may have existed for 80 million years, and survived when the dinosaurs perished 65 million years ago.

Australian aborigines discovered the benefits of Emu Oil many thousands of years ago and used its helpful properties on damaged and sunburned skin. In more recent work, a study at Texas Tech reported that topically-applied Emu Oil reduces burn pain as effectively as when compared to 600 milligrams of Ibuprofen taken 3 times daily.

The fatty acid composition of human skin oil and Emu Oil are very similar. In both oils mono-unsaturated oleic acid is the most prevalent, then palmitic acid, followed by the essential fatty acid, linoleic acid. This may be the reason for the positive actions of Emu Oil on human skin. (Zemtsov et al 1996)

A study by Lopez and his colleagues (1999) found strong anti-inflammatory effects of topically applied Emu Oil after skin was exposed to the a very strong irritant: Croton Oil. By 12 hours, after applying Emu Oil, there was significantly less edema and swelling than controls not treated with the oil.

Politis and Dmytrowich (1998) found that if Emu Oil was applied immediately after a wounding injury it delayed healing. However, if applied 2 days after injury it then aided the healing process. So for skin repair, first use Copper-Peptides, then later start using the Emu Oil.

While scientific studies on Emu Oil are just beginning, Emu Oil has been traditionally used help alleviate discomfort of arthritis, shingles, eczema, psoriasis and other inflammatory conditions.

Hair Regrowth

Within the past year many of our customers have reported that the combination of Folligen's Copper-Peptides and Emu Oil often produce drastic reductions in hair loss and increased hair growth. Although Emu Oil is used by many for reducing hair loss in various parts of the world, in the USA FDA regulations discourage the marketing of Emu Oil for hair restoration. Recently, Dr. Michael Holick (Boston University Medical Center) reported a clinical study that found Emu Oil accelerated skin regeneration and also stimulated hair growth. He wrote, "The hair follicles were more robust, the skin thickness was remarkably increased...Also, we discovered in the same test that over 80 percent of hair follicles that had been 'asleep' were awakened, and began growing hair".

Using Emu Oil

Apply a light coating of Emu Oil to your skin or scalp. If your skin feels too oily, lightly wipe off excess oil with a tissue, enough will stick to your skin to be effective.

If using Emu Oil with Folligen for hair, first apply the Folligen, then the Emu Oil. Or use the products on alternate days.

Storing Emu Oil

Physically Emu Oil is creamy and white to off-white in color. It is semi-liquid (pourable) at room temperature but solidifies in a refrigerator. Our peroxide-free oil is stable at room temperature for 3 months. However, during very hot weather, it should be stored in a refrigerator to extend its life.
 
 

Tocotrienols and Skin Health

Topically applied tocotrienols selectively accumulate in skin and serve to protect it against ultraviolet damage and oxidation. (Traber et al 1997). In rats it was found that UV radiation significantly reduced Vitamin E concentrations after 29 minutes of UV exposure, but in skin treated with tocotrienols the Vitamin E concentrations were seven to thirty-fold times higher after the radiation.
 

7-Keto DHEA and Skin Health

7-keto DHEA is a safer metabolite of regular DHEA (dehydroepiandrosterone), a natural hormone that improves skin lipid production.  7-Keto DHEA is one of more than 150 metabolites of DHEA, a precursor hormone that is produced by the adrenal gland and source of many other hormones, including the sex hormones estrogen and testosterone. Unlike regular DHEA, 7-Keto DHEA is not converted into either estrogens or testosterone but still has DHEA's other beneficial actions. In recent controlled studies, 7-keto DHEA has been shown to improve sense of well-being, immune and mental function, and muscle tone in middle aged men and women.

DHEA levels peak at age 25, then gradually decline. By age 60, DHEA levels are 30% or less of those in young adults. DHEA is also essential for proper sebaceous gland functioning and the production of skin oils. Much of the increase of dry skin with age is due to the decease in DHEA levels in the skin. (Sourla et al).

Schwartz and Pashko (1996) reported that "topical application of DHEA on mouse skin inhibits skin tumor promotion." DHEA aids the skin's superoxide defense and this may explain its ability to prevent skin cancer and papillomas (benign tumors). DHEA also keeps some chemical carcinogens from binding to DNA. According to researchers at the Fels Research Institute and Temple University, cancers just do not start if enough DHEA is present.

Studies show that DHEA is readily absorbed by skin when applied topically. Topically applied DHEA helps protect the skin's delicate blood vessels. Researchers reported that when DHEA was applied after a serious burn, the blood vessels underlying the burned area are protected and the skin is preserved instead of peeling off.
 

Ubiquinone and Skin Health

Ubiquinone is an oxidative reduction agent that functions in the energy-producing electron transfer chain in the mitochondria of cells. Ubiquinone also serves as an important lipid-soluble antioxidant in the skin and other organs protecting against free radical damage from peroxides that damage collagen and elastin, which produces a loss of elasticity in the skin and wrinkle formation. Animals fed Ubiquinone have lower cancer rates.  Ubiquinone discoverer, Dr. Karl Folkers suggested that Ubiquinone might control cancer either by facilitating antibody synthesis or by counteracting tumor cell functioning. His ideas were based on case reports of  unexpected or unusually long survival for cancer patients who were using Ubiquinone for cardiac problems.

Squalane and Squalane are two very similar lipids and compose 15% of skin fats in the teenage years but decline to about 5% after age 50. This is a major factor in the skin becoming rough, dry, and vulnerable to damage.

Of the two compounds, Squalane from olive oil is more stable and preferred for skin use. When rubbed on skin, squalane acts to improve skin protection and moisturization. Squalane is absorbed deeply and quickly into the skin and does not leave an oily film. It is especially useful on dry scaly portions of the body as it helps to maintain your skin's natural moisture level and produces the appearance of softer, smoother skin.

Squalane Background

For thousands of years fishermen from Scandinavia, Japan, and the South Pacific have used fish fats rich in Squalane/Squalane for healing the skin of their faces and hands after irritation by salt water. Naturally these lipids are found in several foods such as plant oils (especially olive and wheat germ), meats, and some fish oils as well as in human sebum. The richest source of this Squalane/Squalane is a breed of shark that lives in deep waters off the island of Okinawa. In 1916 a Japanese Chemist, Tsujimoto Mitsumaru, isolated and documented Squalane in the liver oil of the family of fatty shark called Squalidae. Because over fishing has endangered these sharks, Squalane from olive oil is mainly used today.

Squalane/Squalane serves as an antioxidant to cell membranes and within the cell. The compounds have some anti-cancer properties (Lee and Langer 1983). The compounds promotes the activity of T and B lymphocytes and macrophages. In animal studies, mice were protected against the toxicity and injury of radiation when fed a diet supplemented with 2% Squalane (Storm et al, 1993). The compounds also have some anti-fungal properties and enhances the effects of Amphotericin B (Fungizone) against a variety of candida species Masuda et al, 1982).

Calypso's Oil Basic is a light and soothing body oil that aids skin moisturizing and healing. It has more direct skin protective properties than Emu Oil or Squalane but is still a "dry" oil. Customers with severe eczema report that the oil often improves skin health. Light oils are one of the best protections against dry skin and for promoting skin health in general. For thousands of years, our ancestors used body oils; but today they have often been replaced by watery skin lotions that do little for skin and often degrade skin health.

Calypso's Oil is contains three plant oils: sweet almond oil, sesame oil, and octyl palmitate from coconut oil. In addition, the oil contains mixed natural tocopheryls (alpha, beta, gamma, delta), mixed natural tocotrienols (alpha, beta, gamma, delta), ubiquinone and 7-keto DHEA.

Calypso's Oil also comes in versions with pure aromatic essential oils and pheromone-like scents such as lavender, jasmine, ylang ylang, sandalwood, asian oud and pheromones. Lavender soothes the skin, reduces pain and aids relaxation. Jasmine, ylang ylang, sandalwood, and oud have been used for thousands of years to increase interpersonal attraction, have mild aphrodisiac qualities and increase interpersonal bonding. All scented Calypso's Oils are enhanced with our exclusive Pheromone (For more on these oils see www.calypsos-oil.com )

Customer Comments:

I am 75 and had a patch of psoriasis on the side of one eye for years. Dermatologists gave me medicines for years without success.  Four nights of the Emu Oil for Skin cleared the psoriasis.

I also have used the CP Serum followed by the Emu Oil for several weeks and the pores on my face are much smaller and hardly noticeable.

B.C.
California

A.K.
New Jersey

I just wanted to drop you a line and tell you that I have been using the CP Serum and Emu Oil and have noticed some very positive changes in my skin.

What I have noticed overall, is that my skin appears to look more luminous. I do use Renova, and have found using the CP Serum and Emu Oil on alternate days to be extremely healing.  I have used the NEOVA products and liked them very much. But I will tell you that knowing that you have made a more powerful version of your original Copper-Peptide cream that I am able to purchase in a serum and at such a savings is fabulous. Greater potency and more bang for your buck - who wouldn't love that.

I thank you for providing us all with such wonderful products that are clearly as effective as you say and as I had hoped.  I will continue to use them and I recommend them to all those I believe would benefit from such cutting edge technology, namely everyone!  Keep the great stuff coming!

All my best,

O.F.
Massachusetts

Lee, A. and Langer, R.: (Shark Liver Extract Contains Inhibitors of Tumor Angiogenesis) Science 221:1185-86, 1983

Lopez A; Sims DE; Ablett RF; Skinner RE; Leger LW; Lariviere CM; Jamieson LA; Martinez-Burnes J; Zawadzka GG Effect of emu oil on auricular inflammation induced with croton oil in mice. Am J Vet Res 1999 Dec;60(12):1558-61

Maret G Traber, Maurizio Podda, Christine Weber, Jens Thiele, Michalis Rallis, Lester Packer, Diet-derived and topically applied tocotrienols accumulate in skin and protect the tissue against ultraviolet light-induced oxidative stress
Asia Pacific Journal of Clinical Nutrition (1997) Volume 6, Number 1: 63-67

Masuda, A. et al: (Potentiation of Anti-fungal Effect of Amphotericin B by Squalene, An Intermediate For Sterol Biosynthesis) J. Antibiot. 35(2): 230-234, 1982

Politis MJ; Dmytrowich A, Promotion of second intention wound healing by Emu Oil lotion: comparative results with furasin, polysporin, and cortisone.  Plast Reconstr Surg 1998 Dec;102(7):2404-7

Schwartz and Pashko (1996) - "Cancer prevention and DHEA", New York Academy of Sciences (1996) pages 180-186.

A Sourla, V Richard, F Labrie and C Labrie, Oncology and Molecular Endocrinology Research Center, Centre Hospitalier Universitaire de Québec (CHUQ), CHUL Pavilion, Department of Medicine and Laval University, Québec, G1V 4G2, Canada

Storm, HM, Oh SY, Kimler BF, Norton S.: Radioprotection of mice by dietary Squalene. Lipids (United States) 28.555-559, 1993

Zemtsov A; Gaddis M; Montalvo-Lugo VM;
Moisturizing and cosmetic properties of Emu Oil: a pilot double blind study, Australas J Dermatol 1996 Aug;37(3):159-61

Zettersten EM; Ghadially R; Feingold KR; Crumrine D; Elias PM
Optimal ratios of topical stratum corneum lipids improve barrier recovery in chronologically aged skin.
J Am Acad Dermatol 1997 Sep;37(3 Pt 1):403-8